Digital Vegetarian

Surfin’ USA

Well I really really wanted to try surfing when I was younger. I’m finally living close enough to try it and when my friends tell me about the waves they’ve hit this week I think, man I needed to try this again.

Tonight, I’m watching a friend’s aptartment for them in downtown L.A. and I’m just watching a movie about Greg Noll riding the ‘biggest waves ever photographed’. Very inspiring (Riding Giants - director, Stacy Peralta). I wish I was a stronger swimmer. I’m proposing to learn how to ride some waves like the ones near Sunset Beach (Bolsa Chica) next summer. I was able to catch a pretty good wave there. Being a certified snowboard instructor, I thought this would be easy - so this past summer I had 2 weeks to kill and tried to learn how to surf.

Man, its not easy when you are out of shape. Step one - get in shape, then try. And hell chew some gum as the ocean tastes like ocean. Step two, not quite sure but it definitely involves taking lessons.

I did get up my first try, but I haven’ really given this surfing thing the proper attention and now its too cold without a wetsuit. So I propose to learn next summer and post some pix soon! for now its snow season and I can’t wait to go home to Toronto and get my snowboards to hit Mammoth or Big Bear soon.

Till next time,

no way dude…..I can’t wait to write about Mammoth and Big Bear!